Ensemble

Collection Type

  • Clothing and accessories

Date

1880-1889

GUSN

GUSN-12851

Description

Ensemble is dark blue velvet; bodice (A) has band collar, piped with blue satin with inner ruffle of pleated white tulle edged with lace; lace jabot around neck; 16 silk buttons center front; princess seams; scalloped hem piped in satin forming asymmetrically draped peplum in back; long sleeves with piped and scalloped cuffs; tulle and lace ruffles inside cuffs; lined with white cotton, sleeves with white taffeta and peplum with blue satin. Skirt (B) has asymmetrically draped front panel with 2 under ruffles, the top with a piped and scalloped hem, the bottom, pleated; dust ruffle of 2 layers of pleated white cotton edged with lace; coin? pocket at waist; pocket at right side; hook and eye closure at right side; gathered at waist in back; fully lined in blue taffeta; 2 sets of cotton and elastic tape ties with boning for bustle. Jacket (C) is hip-length; princess seams, gray fur trim around band collar, cuff and hem; hook and eye closure at throat; double breasted, 8 covered buttons with metal crest; fully lined with blue quilted satin; 2 satin inner pockets; 2 more buttons (with metal crest) at waist in back. Overskirt (D) is gathered at top; hooks at waist and sides to attach to skirt (loops on skirt missing); asymmetrically draped; piped and scalloped hem lined with taffeta; pleated under ruffle lined with blue glazed wool; fully lined with stiff white cotton. Bustle pad (E) is blue taffeta, square, lined with horsehair; 1 eye at upper left corner to attach to skirt. Muff (G) is gray fur matching trim on jacket; lined with blue satin; side opening have gray elastic drawstrings with gray silk tassels. Bill of Sale - (F) in file.

Details

Descriptive Terms

ensembles (costume)
cotton (textile)
fur
stitching
lace (needlework)
machine-made
satin
scalloping
silk (textile)
taffeta
velvet (fabric weave)
Women's clothing
Silk
Taffeta
Satin
Velvet
Cotton
Fur
Lace
Hand Stitched
Scalloped
ENSEMBLE

Label

Label "Waiting for a Gallery" Mlle Lipman of Paris made this luxurious sapphitre blue velvet ensemble trimmed with chincilla for Miss C.L.W. French of Boston. The original bill and a photograph of one of Miss French's relatives wearing the dress at a Boston suffrage pagent in 1920 were also given to SPNEA.
"Cherished Possesions": Anyone living in New England realizes that dressing in winter means dressing for warmth. A stylish few, however, somehow manage to combine warmth with elegance. This ensemble was purchased by Miss C. L. W. French of Roxbury and Boston, Massachusetts, from Mlle Lipman's establishment in Paris for the lavish sum of 1,600 francs. Miss French surely would have impressed anyone as she strolled along the Commonwealth Avenue mall or rode down Beacon Street in a sleigh.

Inscription

1) stamped in ink on dress shields ""VERNA/GUARANTEED/Washable-waterproof/Timothy Smith Co./1B 2 2003"" 2) Stamped in gold on inner waistband and jacket collar: (in script ""Melle Camille Lipman/ROBES/2. Rue Droust.? Paris"" 3)Embossed on back of jacket buttons: ""SOLIDITE (shield & chevron symbol) PARIS 33"" 4)Embossed on overskirt hooks: ""NICHOLLS""

Maker

Lipman, Camille (Maker)

Credit Line

Gift of Nancy Olive Morison Allis

Accession Number

1990.507A-G

Places

Paris (Ville de Paris department, Île-de-France, France)

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