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Demi- parure consisting of a brooch [.1] and pair of earrings [.2ab]. Gold crescent shaped brooch with faceted jet beads and seed pearls and a crescent shaped compartment containing a lock of brown hair, hinged pin and hook on reverse. Gold earrings feature faceted jet bead and seed pearl rosette tops supporting round drop plaques with an inverse heart shaped cut out set with faceted jet beads and seed pearls and a crescent shaped compartment containing a lock of hair.
pearl (animal material)
Mourning jewelry was frequently passed down through the family. In an image from about 1870 Margaret Duncan wears earrings from this set commemorating her deceased father and two siblings.
Brooch: "J.H.D." Earring B: "R. W. D." Earring C: "B. W. D." (Engraved)
Stephen Phillips House (Salem, Mass.),
3/4 x 7/8 x 1/4 (HxWxD) (inches)
Gift of the Stephen Phillips Memorial Charitable Trust for Historic Preservation
"Jewelry at Historic New England," Online exhibit presented by Historic New England launched September 30, 2007 at www.historicnewengland.org/jewelryhistory/.
For more information on jet jewelry and imitations see Bury, Shirley, "Jewellery, 1789-1910" v. 2 (1991): 657-709; Cooper, Diana and Norman Battershill, "Victorian Sentimental Jewellery," (1972): 19-30; Dawes, Ginny Reddington and Corinne Davidov, "Victorian Jewelry: Unexplored Treasures," (1991): 125-130; Fales, Martha Gandy, "Jewelry in America, 1600-1900," (1995): 125-126, 254-256; Phillips, Clare, "Jewels and Jewelry," (2000): 94-95.