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This gold oval brooch with a blue and white enamel border, is set with a painting on ivory of a veiled woman weeping next to an inscribed plinth and urn. Human hair appears to be mixed into the pigment. A winged putti hovers over her head holding a scroll that reads "Welcome." The woman is seated beneath a fir tree. The brooch is set at the center top with a gold loop for suspension as a pendant. The reverse of the brooch is set with human hair. The brooch closes with a hinged pin and hook on the reverse.
ivory (tooth component)
enamel (fused coating)
"WEL- / COME / ML / NOT / LOST / BUT / GONE / BEFORE" (Painted)
Title Mourning brooch Accession Number 1918.1254
Title Brass button with eagle, anchor and stars Accession Number 1935.412
1 7/16 x 1 x 1/4 (HxWxD) (inches)
Gift of Miss Annie H. Thwing
"Hidden Treasures from Elegant Eras," Historic Jewelry from the Collections of the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities presented by Shreve, Crump & Low, September 15 - November 30, 1995. "Jewelry at Historic New England," Online exhibit presented by Historic New England launched September 30, 2007 at www.historicnewengland.org/jewelryhistory/.
Pictured in Sage, Adrienne, "Wealth, Style and Sentiment," Historic New England (Winter/Spring 2005): 6. For more information on hair jewelry see Bell, C. Jeanenne, "Collector's Encyclopedia of Hairwork Jewelry," (1998); Bury, Shirley, "Jewellery, 1789-1910," v. 2 (1991): 680-698; Campbell, Mark, "The Art of Hair Work: Hair Braiding and Jewelry of Sentiment with Catalog of Hair Jewelry," Eds. Jules & Kaethe Kliot (facsimile of 1875 printing, 1996); Dawes, Ginny Reddington & Corinne Davidov, "Victorian Jewelry: Unexplored Treasures," (1991): 139-143; Fales, Martha Gandy, "Jewelry in America, 1600-1900," (1995): 98-107, 214-219.