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Ensemble

1990.507A-G (RS32636)

Description

Ensemble is dark blue velvet; bodice (A) has band collar, piped with blue satin with inner ruffle of pleated white tulle edged with lace; lace jabot around neck; 16 silk buttons center front; princess seams; scalloped hem piped in satin forming asymmetrically draped peplum in back; long sleeves with piped and scalloped cuffs; tulle and lace ruffles inside cuffs; lined with white cotton, sleeves with white taffeta and peplum with blue satin. Skirt (B) has asymmetrically draped front panel with 2 under ruffles, the top with a piped and scalloped hem, the bottom, pleated; dust ruffle of 2 layers of pleated white cotton edged with lace; coin? pocket at waist; pocket at right side; hook and eye closure at right side; gathered at waist in back; fully lined in blue taffeta; 2 sets of cotton and elastic tape ties with boning for bustle. Jacket (C) is hip-length; princess seams, gray fur trim around band collar, cuff and hem; hook and eye closure at throat; double breasted, 8 covered buttons with metal crest; fully lined with blue quilted satin; 2 satin inner pockets; 2 more buttons (with metal crest) at waist in back. Overskirt (D) is gathered at top; hooks at waist and sides to attach to skirt (loops on skirt missing); asymmetrically draped; piped and scalloped hem lined with taffeta; pleated under ruffle lined with blue glazed wool; fully lined with stiff white cotton. Bustle pad (E) is blue taffeta, square, lined with horsehair; 1 eye at upper left corner to attach to skirt. Muff (G) is gray fur matching trim on jacket; lined with blue satin; side opening have gray elastic drawstrings with gray silk tassels. Bill of Sale - (F) in file.

Details

Label
Label "Waiting for a Gallery" Mlle Lipman of Paris made this luxurious sapphitre blue velvet ensemble trimmed with chincilla for Miss C.L.W. French of Boston. The original bill and a photograph of one of Miss French's relatives wearing the dress at a Boston suffrage pagent in 1920 were also given to SPNEA.
"Cherished Possesions": Anyone living in New England realizes that dressing in winter means dressing for warmth. A stylish few, however, somehow manage to combine warmth with elegance. This ensemble was purchased by Miss C. L. W. French of Roxbury and Boston, Massachusetts, from Mlle Lipman's establishment in Paris for the lavish sum of 1,600 francs. Miss French surely would have impressed anyone as she strolled along the Commonwealth Avenue mall or rode down Beacon Street in a sleigh.
Maker
Lipman, Camille (Maker)
Date
1880-1889
Inscriptions
1) stamped in ink on dress shields ""VERNA/GUARANTEED/Washable-waterproof/Timothy Smith Co./1B 2 2003"" 2) Stamped in gold on inner waistband and jacket collar: (in script ""Melle Camille Lipman/ROBES/2. Rue Droust.? Paris"" 3)Embossed on back of jacket buttons: ""SOLIDITE (shield & chevron symbol) PARIS 33"" 4)Embossed on overskirt hooks: ""NICHOLLS""
Material
cotton (textile)
fur
lace (needlework)
machine-made
satin
scalloping
silk (textile)
stitching
taffeta
velvet (fabric weave)
Object type
Clothing--Outerwear
Places
Paris (Ville de Paris department, Île-de-France, France)
Descriptive terms
Cotton
cotton (textile)
ENSEMBLE
ensembles (costume)
Fur
fur
Hand Stitched
Lace
lace (needlework)
machine-made
satin
Satin
Scalloped
scalloping
Silk
silk (textile)
stitching
Taffeta
taffeta
Velvet
velvet (fabric weave)
Women's clothing
Accession Number
1990.507A-G
Credit Line
Gift of Nancy Olive Morison Allis
GUSN
12851
Related Items
Title Alice Pearse wearing a blue velvet ensemble

Comments

Detail #

AvatarPosted by Rebecca on December 18, 2013
Is a closeup of buttons available?

Detail of the buttons #

AvatarPosted by Nicole Chalfant - Collection Manager on December 23, 2013
Rebecca,
Thank you for your inquiry regarding the buttons on this lovely winter ensemble. I would be happy to send you a detail image of the buttons. Please send me an email at: nchalfant@historicnewengland.org.
Sincerely, Nicole Chalfant
Collection Manager