Magnificent London The Other Rome An Edwardian House Party
Appleton Circle Celebrates "An Edwardian House Party" in England
May 2008
Click to view the Edwardian House Party photo gallery
Click Here to view the Edwardian House Party photo gallery.

During May, Historic New England’s Appleton Circle members enjoyed one of two European Adventures scheduled for 2009, An Edwardian House Party, visiting a variety of private homes and collections in England, and examining with delightful and dedicated English hosts topics related to our mission of heritage preservation.

This seven-day trip provided a wonderful look at various ways historic houses are preserved and cared for in England. We began our stay with dinner at London’s historic Garrick Club, one of the exclusive enclaves that serve as “home away from home” for Londoners and others. Surrounded by 18th century portraits of actors and theatre people hung to the ceiling, and amidst tales of famous members and visitors such as A.A. Milne of Winnie the Pooh fame, the week began with outstanding food, a tour of the club rooms and convivial conversation. London “urban home” visits included lunch at the home of Lady Elizabeth Anson, a cousin of Her Majesty The Queen and sister of the late photographer Lord Litchfield. Lady Anson enthralled the group with stories of the renovation of her early 19th century house, and tales of how the common community garden she shares with neighbors developed as a private version of traditional London garden squares such as Berkeley Square or Belgrave Square.

Our group was invited by American Ambassador to the Court of St. James Robert H. Tuttle to tea at Winfield House. This Georgian-style home of the American Ambassador was given to the United States by Woolworth family descendent Barbara Hutton, and is named for her grandfather Frank Winfield Woolworth. Historic New England guests recognized that Beauport was similarly preserved and given to Historic New England by another family member, Helena Woolworth McCann. Head Gardener Stephen Crisp, who serves in a broad sense as historian and curator for the entire house, was our knowledgeable host in the home and for home-baked American style chocolate chip cookies, and our expert guide in the 12 acres of garden that border Regent’s Park. In addition to enjoying a beautiful landscape design and a wonderful array of garden types, the Appleton Circle travelers were treated to the roar of the lions from the neighboring London Zoo.

Heading out from London the group stopped for a stroll in a remarkable little village consisting of whitewashed cottages all with thatched roofs before visiting Houghton Lodge. At this Gothic Cottage Orné, or picturesque cottage, located along the River Test we learned from family member Michael Busk about preservation efforts there and the challenges of financing care of an historic house. Many will remember Michael’s witty response to a question about the date of a decorative chimney pot: “It’s Elizabethan…circa 1967!” At Trafalgar House, opera lover Michael Wade described falling in love with a marvelous 18th century home, complete with a Giovanni Cipriani painted room but in need of much love and restoration. The group saw un-restored areas, in addition to enjoying a marvelous lunch in the fully restored dining room.

Arriving in Devon, in the English Southwest, Historic New England travelers were welcomed in true country house party fashion to Ugbrooke Park, home of the 14th Lord Clifford and Lady Clifford, and of the Clifford family since 1564. Michael the butler helped escort our guests to their rooms, referring to a beautifully painted 19th century rooming board where names were calligraphed. Tea and home-baked sweets welcomed the group, who later enjoyed drinks in the Drawing Room prior to an elaborate dinner that featured family silver and china. Rows of silver candelabra of all periods lined the long table, centerpiece of which was an 18th century epergne outfitted with fruit, flowers and sweets. Drinks in the Morning Room rounded out each evening. Many guests slept in high post beds and all awakened to the sound of sheep in the park. For three days, Appleton Circle members enjoyed the marvelous hospitality and conviviality of Lord and Lady Clifford, while journeying out during the day for visits to spectacular private homes and gardens. The range was extraordinary, from early 18th century Mothecombe (with 1922 addition by Sir Edwin Landseer Lutyens) to the 1930’s Ashcombe Tower, from Capability Brown designed formal landscapes to carefully tended natural settings along flowing streams, from houses that could almost be museums to those that had the “lived-in” look of family life. All offered the opportunity for meals and conversations with the owners about preservation, collections, family and heritage. Member of Parliament Sir Malcolm Field, former chairman of the UK Aviation Authority who oversaw investigation of the Concorde disaster and planned the renovations of the London Underground, welcomed us to his country home and garden. The Orangery which he and artist wife Annie Field have renovated beautifully was a Folly on a long-gone estate. Today Annie has a wonderful Oriental design studio building for her painting and sculpture which overlooks gardens spectacularly tended by Sir Malcolm, all on a hill with views out to the Devon coast. These and other generous and welcoming hosts made for a very special travel experience, and highlighted the architectural, design, decorative arts and landscape heritage that is shared between American and England.

In the course of the trip, the group visited historic houses managed by Historic Royal Palaces (Kew Palace, restored within the last two years), English Heritage (Apsley House, home of the Duke of Wellington), the British National Trust (Knightshayes Court, a High Gothic Revival house with spectacular garden), and privately owned homes of many sizes and periods. We also visited Exeter Cathedral to learn about planned expansion and care improvements for the library, which contains a copy of the 1663 Eliot Bible, the earliest bible published in New England. We thus had the opportunity to see different philosophies of preservation, to hear from managers and owners about the challenges of building and collection care, and to learn about financial, tax and preservation issues from those directly involved—in addition to seeing some truly beautiful homes, gardens and collections and experiencing wonderful hospitality everywhere. A surprising visit was to Ashcombe Tower, where Lord and Lady Rayner surprised us with extraordinary 1930s Art Deco interiors designed by Brian O’Rorke, who designed interiors for the liners Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth. With original furniture, original fabrics by Marion Dorn who also designed for the Queen Mary, the dining room could readily have been relocated exactly intact to the Victoria and Albert Museum.

On our return journey, a highlight of the trip was the opportunity to visit HRH The Prince of Wales’ gardens at Highgrove House. Bypassing the three-year waiting list, Appleton Circle travelers were escorted by Janie Clifford, who earlier welcomed us to her family’s complex of beautiful buildings at Frampton Manor. Mrs. Clifford joyfully conveyed the sense of beauty and peace that Prince Charles has attempted to create in the gardens, while also highlight many of the fun features to be found throughout the extensive grounds. A special treat for the Historic New England group was the chance to visit Doughton Manor, located just across the road from Highgrove. This circa 1590 manor is the home of Richard Carter, former trustee of Historic New England. Mr. Carter welcomed our group and shared some of his discoveries about the history and construction of the home, along with warm hospitality.

Upon return to London, the Appleton Circle travelers were welcomed in the ultra-fashionable Belgravia neighborhood for a marvelous townhouse dinner with Lord and Lady Spencer-Churchill. Lord Charles is brother to the Duke of Marlborough, and conveyed stories of growing up at Blenheim Palace.

The final day of the Edwardian House Party began with attendance at Members’ Day at the world-renowned Chelsea Flower Show, on the grounds of the Royal Hospital, Chelsea. There, fabulous contemporary “show gardens” were installed to highlight the latest in garden design, prize plants were shown in glorious and colorful profusion, and vendors offered the very latest in “everything garden” from John Deere tractors to garden fountains.

The finale of the Appleton Circle Edwardian House Party was an evening that few have ever experienced but that all involved with museums would treasure. Curator of Drawings Stephen Astley welcomed our travelers for cocktails in the yellow Drawing room at Sir John Soane’s Museum in Lincoln’s Inn Fields. This home of the architect of the British Museum was created specifically to teach architecture, and was among the first formal museums ever established, in 1827. Mr. Astley gave a remarkable introduction to the building and collection—which features the largest holdings of drawings by Robert Adam, along with antiquities, paintings and decorative arts—and then led the group to the candlelit Dining Room of the house for a spectacular farewell dinner. Jemima, harpist to Prince Charles and fresh from playing the weekend before at the wedding of the Queen’s granddaughter, provided musical entertainment. A round of toasts celebrated the travelers, the success of the Edwardian House Party trip, and the common commitment all share to the mission of Historic New England.

Appleton Circle members are invited for the next European Adventure, Marvelous Madrid, October 2-8, 2008.

Click Here to view the Edwardian House Party photo gallery.

 


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